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Tuesday, July 5, 2011

The Appeal of Peels

What can brighten dark spots, improve acne, even out skin tone, and treat mild photoaging, but with minimal downtime?  Glycolic acid peels!  Of all the tools in the dermatologist's toolbox, a glycolic acid peel is a tried and true procedure for great cosmetic results and an overall improved texture of the skin. 

What is glycolic acid?  It's an AHA, alpha-hydroxy acid, which is a naturally occurring compound made from sugar.  The depth or strength of the peel depends on which concentration is used.  20-50% glycolic acid is a very superficial peel, while 50-70% is a little stronger (deeper), but still considered a superficial peel.  Superficial peels affect the very top layers of the skin, so there is little risk of scarring or hyperpigmentation (darkening after the peel).

What happens when I come for a peel?  Before the peel, the skin is cleansed with soap and water, cleansed with alcohol or acetone, and the rinsed with water.  The reason for this is to remove oil and debris from the skin.  The glycolic acid is then applied to the skin.  Usually it is left on for 2-4 minutes.  It may sting a little or feel like mild burning during this.  Often, handheld fan helps.  Then the skin is neutralized with a solution and/or washed with water.

What happens after?  Most people will have mild redness/pinkness a day or two after the peel.  If it was a deeper peel, mild crusting can be seen.  Often, vaseline is applied to help with healing.  After any peel, it's very important to avoid the sun and wear sunscreen.  Daily moisturizer should be applied.  Smoking is should be avoided (although, shouldn't it always be avoided?) because it slows healing. 

And then?  Radiant, healthier looking skin!  Peels can be done every few weeks.  Who shouldn't do peels?  Anyone who has been on accutane in the last 6 months, anyone with an active herpes infection, and anyone with a tan.  Not that you would ever be tan, though...right?! 

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