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Monday, September 24, 2012

Slap it on

We all know that we should use our sunscreens, moisturizers, and retinoids... but exactly how they should be used sometimes is a bit of a mystery.  Using too much (or not enough) can lead to less than desirable results.

Step one: alarm goes off.  Press snooze.  Eventually roll out of bed towards the bathroom.

Step two: wash face - maybe.
Some advocate washing twice a day; morning and night.  If you have oily skin, then this may be a good strategy for you.  However, for those with skin that tends to be dry and sensitive, overzealous washing may make your skin more dry, and once daily may be better.  Use a gentle non-drying cleanser, such as cetaphil.  Harsh scrubs with large particles can irritate the skin and strip essential oils, so it's usually better to avoid them.  Hand held brushes, such as the Clarsonic, can often be a great tool in cleansing the skin.  Pat skin dry gently. 

Step three: apply topical medications, if necessary
Now is a good time to apply any prescription topical creams (for acne, rosacea, etc) as directed by your dermatologist.   Applying medications before sunscreens and makeup allows the medication to be absorbed into the skin and be more effective.

Strep four: protect - sunblock time! 
Use a broad spectrum sunblock that blocks both UVA and UVB rays.  Now here's the most important part: the amount necessary for the face is a teaspoon full.  Many people use a few small dabs to cover their entire face - this is not enough to truly protect against aging and skin cancer.  An SPF 30 is all that is necessary; higher ratings don't offer more protection. 

Apply your makeup (and even better if you use a powder makeup like Colorscience that also contains sunblock).  Remember to reapply sunscreen if you'll be outdoors for longer periods of time, sweating, or swimming.

Step five: cleanse and repair
In the evening, remove makeup with a gentle remover and gently wash your face.  When the skin is damp, apply your retinoid cream.  My favorites are Renova, which is available by prescription, or SkinMedica's TriRetinol complex.  A small pea sized amount should be used to cover the entire face, avoiding the upper and lower eyelids.  Remember, pregnant or nursing women should not use retinoids.

Step six: moisturize and repair
Now's a great time to use an antioxidant and growth factor serum or cream.  Apply about 15-20 minutes after retinoids.  One caveat: if someone has very sensitive skin, I will often recommend putting moisturizer before retinoid cream, to lessen the effect of the retinoid.  Bedtime is a good time to use an eye serum to hydrate the delicate skin under the eyes.

An effective and efficient daily routine is essential to keeping skin healthy and youthful looking, and with a few simple steps, is easy to do!

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